Closet Archive #A: Alexander McQueen

Lee Alexander McQueen was born on 17th March 19 in Lewisham, the east end of London. While growing up in a modest family where his father was a taxi driver and his mother was a social science teacher, Lee, the youngest of the six children knew his inborn talents and differences. He aimed to become a fashion designer and started making dresses for his three sisters at a very young age. 

At the age of 16, Lee left school and began his vast apprenticeship with Savile Row tailors, Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes and finally the theatre costumier, Angels & Bermans to master six methods of pattern cuttings from the melodramatic 16th Century to the razor sharp tailoring. During this time, Lee had developed and sharpened each of the tailoring technics which later on became a signature of his designs. 

After working for a year with Japanese designer, Koji Tatsuno, Lee moved to Milan and became the assistant for Romeo Gigli when he turned 21. Very soon, he returned to London again and applied to Central Saint Martin for a pattern cutter position but ended up as a Masters student in Fashion Design under the persuasion of Bobby Hillson, the Head of the Masters course. In 1992, Lee had completed his Masters degree where his Jack the Ripper inspired graduation collection was entirely bought by Isabella Blow, the fashion stylists later also known as his closest friend and was also the one who had advised him to use his middle name instead for his label, Alexander McQueen. 

Since the debut of his women's collection, Lee had surprised the fashion world by turning his runway to into a dramatical and controversial performance. With the abundance of unconventional and rebellious McQueen signatures such as the "bumster" jeans and skull prints scarf, Lee earned the heart of many celebrities. He emerged as one of the most promising stars and was awarded the title of "British Designer of the Year" between 1996 to 2003.

In October 1996, He was appointed as the Chief Designer of Givenchy but the first collection with Givenchy was a flop. Although Lee had toned down his designs for Givenchy, his extravagant strength had never been able to be congruent with the French Haute Couture house. The appointment with Givenchy ended in 2001 after Gucci Group had acquired 51% of his eponymous label where Lee remained as the creative director till his death.

The first Menswear collection of McQueen was launched in Spring/Summer 2005 with the demonstration of Lee's origin in Savile Row bespoke tailoring. With each of the impeccable silhouettes that he had created for his collections, Lee and his gothic trademarks had also captivated the heart of male fashion fanatics.

On 11th February 2010, just days before London Fashion Week and nine days after the death of his 75 years old mother. Lee, who was reportedly ingesting a lot of drugs and unable to overcome his sorrow, ended his life by hanging himself in his apartment. By leaving a handwritten note saying "Look after my dogs, sorry, I love you, Lee." His death was not just simply shocking but the world lamented over the lost of a talented bright star of the British fashion world. Today, the position of creative director has been taken over by Lee's long term assistant, Sarah Burton who continues the brand with Lee's rebellious spirit. 

While you can purchase the McQueen products at its own shopping site, I shall not go into details and let's end this week's archive with the recap on some wonderful shows that Lee had once given to us

1) "Voss" 2001 S/S Collection

2) "Plato's Alantis" 2010 S/S Collection

Image via Alexander McQueen, Another, The Metropolitan Museum of Art